Wednesday, April 28, 2010

What's the engine oil viscosity ';upgrade'; from a 10W-30 oil?

For more than a year, I've been using carbon-based 10W-30 motor oil on my Chevrolet 3100 series V-6. The manufacturer recommends a 5W-30, but due to high miles (120,000+) and some valve train noise when the engine's cold, I'd like to use a thicker oil on the next change. I switched to a 10W-30 over a year ago after noticing the noise.





Is a 10W-40 a step up in viscosity from a 10W-30, so to speak? FYI, I live in Michigan...cold winters and warm summers. Thank you!What's the engine oil viscosity ';upgrade'; from a 10W-30 oil?
the thicker oil can actually make the noise louder because the oil is thicker and harder to get through the ports(especially in cold mornings) i would suggest 5-30 in the winter and 10-30 in the summer. most of the time the noise comes from the valves. have someone check them and tighten them if needed.What's the engine oil viscosity ';upgrade'; from a 10W-30 oil?
Using a higher vescosity oil b/c of valvetrain noise is the wrong thing to do. Your engine is making noise for a reason. Chances are, you have too much bearing slop in the engine i.e. Cam bearings and or crank bearings. Adding ';Thicker oil'; will only make the problems worse in the long run. The manufacturer specifies the correct oil to use in the engine, use it. Sounds to me like your engine is in need of service.
I wouldn't run full synthetic with that many miles, your engine would leak from every seal and gasket. I'd use a 10w-40, and put up with the noise. Thicker oil (20w) in the winter would take longer to reach your valvetrain/camshaft, and would actually cause increased wear. If all you can complain about is valvetrain noise from your 3100 with that many miles, your actually doing quite well. Keep the oil changed, sounds like she's gonna last a while longer yet!
Thicker oil will make things worse. You get less oil flow, it takes longer to get to places during cold starts and you get less oil in tight spots.
well yes and no. The 10w40 is the next step on the viscosity scale. But it is still a 10 weight at start and then instead of a 30 weight it will be a 40 weight at operating temperature. If you have lifter noise or any other for that matter that is not normal the oil will not help anything. All you are doing by putting thicker oil in is diluting the noise. Just like putting ear plugs in to not hear the undesirable. The problem is still there you just cant hear it anymore. It will do that for a while and then you will hear it again. Whats next? maybe put 15w40 or 20w50 in. All you are doing is putting off a fix. but yes 10w40 is the next oil grade from 10w30.
I would go with either the 5W-30 for high mileage or the 10W-30 for high mileage. Warmer weather is on the way so I would step up the viscosity yet. It would also be a good idea to check you seals. Higher mileage u could have a seal or gasket that are getting hard.
10-40, 20-40 or 20-50. However, I saw somewhere a 15-30 but not sure where.





However, your asking a Viscosity question and that all depends upon the emollients put in at the refinery's. I much prefer a full synthetic if your concerned with an engines oil viscosity breaking down and they all do, crude grades however do it faster. Those other numbers we just floated around are just the thickness of oil at cold or warm temps. Just keep it changed every 3k miles and 5k for full synthetic.

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